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daveg

Stacking

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Anyone here tried Stacking - this is a very rough, quick attempt using Photoshop CC to do the stacking. I will probably try a little harder when time permits. Any comments welcome.750_2366.thumb.jpg.ac228c476cafdff675efc549dceac10e.jpg

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Focus Stacking? I know of it and have tried it on a macro shot out of curiosity on a fern. My wife is very much into ferns.

 

You seem to have the knack and captured that fifty pence piece really well.

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Yes I have tried most of the free software, combineZP, Zerene, Hugin and of course Photoshop. You need lots of time and patience with stacking and probably the most important things are lens choice, how you change focus and lighting. One of the hardest things is making sure you capture all the layers by ensuring your movement between frames is consistent.

Looks like a good first attempt you have there. 

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4 hours ago, Tinion 45 said:

Yes I have tried most of the free software, combineZP, Zerene, Hugin and of course Photoshop. You need lots of time and patience with stacking and probably the most important things are lens choice, how you change focus and lighting. One of the hardest things is making sure you capture all the layers by ensuring your movement between frames is consistent.

Looks like a good first attempt you have there. 

The lens was a 60mm f2.8 micro. A very cheap but good focussing rail was used to get 11 exposures at f8 at equal increments with flash. 

The lighting needs to be much better and I think that it needs smaller increments - more exposures.

DG

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Thanks Dave for posting this. I have actually purchased a very cheap rail from the internet of course with the intention of trying some focus stacking but I'm afraid it's still on the 'gunna do" list. Looks like stacking could be a good option for getting more depth of field out of macro shots. Well done on your first attempt.

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Second attempt:

Lighting is Flash Left and right through white perspex. Left is Manual 1/32; Right is Manual 1/128. There are 16 shots between nearest and furthest. Aperture is f11 which is about optimum for the 60mm f2.8 Micro.

Untitled2.thumb.jpg.29febb2925c591c63e2773c70ea1874d.jpg

This is a full res crop - BTW camera was in landscape mode on the Rail because Portrait would have been too cumbersome. Hence there were a lot of wasted pixels to the left and right..

FRC.thumb.jpg.d82ce93924a6a855fa2830db874cb0cd.jpg

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I once tried to advise a jeweller about taking shots for a website, thinking that it would be quite straightforward. They had a light box which I think was lit from the bottom, sides and rear made from white perspex. The top had about 16 led lights which provided the sparkle on the jewellery. They had small clear plastic holders which supported the rings in the box. Shooting with a 105mm macro was difficult because you had to be the minimum focussing distance away and then you could not get all the ring in focus. So focus stacking in this situation with lots of images for the website is tediuous. 

I think using a wideangle lens would be better in this situation to get all the subject in focus, allow the lens to be closer to the subject, and get all the subject in focus. It would not matter about the extremities as these can be cropped out and the light box was pure white light anyway. Looking at websites or catalogues with lots of jewellery show that most are virtually all in focus, so I just wonder what setup they use for these.

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This is my offering for today. It is not stacked but shows, I hope, that shadowless lighting is possible in my home made Heath Robinson Rig. Three flashes, all on the same channel and power setting.

750_2532.thumb.jpg.479686fa09c9776e5ddeb0ee9dc0c06e.jpg

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Actually that is very good for heath robinson. I use a similar setup with a light tent but use a couple of angle poise lamps with daylight bulbs from the Range. The rail looks good, but the camera is really good. Thanks for sharing. Barry could teach you a few things about glass photography.

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